May 09, 2004
Adios Costa Rica
Two weeks after returning from Costa Rica and my spearguns are still unpacked, who's in denial? Ahh well glad to be back home.
There were lots of exciting adventures over the last five months not all of which took place underwater though most did involve other liquids. Nevertheless its the little things I miss the most; squawky parrots, the scenic drive to my favorite beach, passing time with friends and the rhythm of the ocean. Sitting here now as I tape up my stick for the summer hockey league opener I am caught between two worlds, half in and half out of each as I try to reconcile the gap between yesterday's fresh snapper and tomorrow's frozen pond.
I guess I'll share a few moments before they fade away.
To help get me through the last month or so I took a job as a snorkel guide to Cano Island, a marine reserve off the Osa peninsula. While the visibility on the coast was almost always poor to average, the shallow reefs of Cano were clear, clean and absolutely packed with fishy folk. On my last trip out (about an hours ride from my village) I was hanging out on the 10m bottom near a small cluster of rocks when I saw what looked like a 100 pound grouper only it seemed a little to light in color. The fish was anything but intimidated and just hung there surveying me and the scenery for several moments. As I left the sandy bottom the fish slowly turned sideways revealing the distinctive snout and line of a mammoth snapper! This fish was absolutely huge (it had to be over 75 pounds) and its nonchalant behavior was indicative of much of the underwater life in these protected waters.
Other Cano highlights included warm and fuzzy close up encounters with the many white tip reef sharks who doze off at all hours, schools of uncommonly tame pargo (red snapper) and swarms of long-snoutted bait fish. I took one at another location, they were so thick you didn't even have to aim.
Earlier in the season Ottawa Freediver David Nesbitt and I made a trip out to try and dive El Diablo, a famous pinnacle just off Cano. Unfortunately the current was so strong it was impossible to stay on the rock, a descent to 10m swept you over 100m away from the spot. Nevertheless David got a few pics of the rainbow runners and big-eye jacks that patrol the shallows there. On later scuba trips I managed to see devil rays, turtles and various other wildlife but never really got the chance to freedive it properly.
One day we were making our way back when our host spotted a turtle caught up in a makeshift float of containers. Locals leave these small plastic jugs of fuel in random locations for those that run out of gas. The turtle was wound around the line several times at both the flipper and neck and its struggle had already caused deep cuts in both places. After several minutes we managed to unwind the poor soul and set it free. Hopefully to heal quickly.
On the hunting front things were a little less dramatic but productive nevertheless. Without a boat I began to just focus one or two places where I knew there was dinner to be found. In both cases an hour or two swim was required plus diving time. By the second month or so I had gotten used to this routine and actually now quite miss it. Fish of choice were plate sized pargo and the odd golden jack when available. Most trips resulted in at least dinner and better days allowed me to stock the freezer a bit though of course I preferred to catch and eat same day.
Parrot fish abound along the southern coast and although the locals have no interest in them whatsoever, my limited budget demanded that I appreciate dinner in whatever form it arrives. In an effort to respect local customs I would hunt for pargo first and, if unsuccessful and empty in freezer, would take a parrot on the way back in. On one of those days I was fishing for a dinner with my Guatemalan friend (who refused to eat parrot) and there was absolutely nothing else around. Finally I took a large bumphead (very stupid parrot fish) and disguised it by frying it up with curry and garlic powder. He thought it was terrific.
All in all it was a fantastic winter and I have surely fallen in love with Costa Rica. The plan for next season is to pick up a kayak so I can get a little better quality game and make friends with someone who owns a boat. Meantime I will trade in my teak stock and shaft for a hockey stick and try to keep my aim sharp.
Keep your stick on the ice,
Perry