Relief finally came in the form of two-dollar pain killers in green foil wrapping and an extra strength tylenol from my emeregency kit. Before that it was almost unbearable. After this many years of fishing, surfing and walking the beaches of the world you would think I know better that to stomp across a rivermouth with little regard for what may be underfoot. Perhaps it was just due...
I arrived in San Jose, Costa Rica with little fanfare. My meeting with the hospitality group that runs the luxury eco-resorts Morgan's Rock and Lapas Rios went well and I spent the second day with girl-friends I met my final day here last April. We agreed to meet later on this winter for a Guanacaste beaches road trip. Should be a lot of fun... I also had a chance to visit the Guzman guitar factory where I bought a half-sized classical guitar for my travels. Its a lovely little guy refinished with about fifty coats of lacquer (which still smells). Together with an extra set of strings I paid $45, more than fair, and had the pleasure of watching one of the original artists carve a headstock by hand.
That done it was time to head north to San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua. Passengers aboard international coaches Ticabus or Nicabus are given priority at the Costa Rica/Nicaragua crossing. Knowing this I was a little perplexed to find out all seats on both coaches were reserved the next day (of course I should have reserved a place days before but you know how it is). Fortunately I managed to find a tourist bus that would get to Liberia, just an hour south of the border, ahead of the others. We missed the first one by a few minutes but the other had yet to arrive so the the driver of the tourist bus and I lay in wait, our Hyundai van hidden amongst the trucks on display at Liberia's new Toyota dealership. Within fifteen minutes the Ticabus arrived and, following a quick discussion amongst the two drivers, (during which fifteen dollars swtiched pockets) I was aboard and home-free!
In all the buses and border crossing took about eight hours. My first stop in SJDS was the Nica Spanish School by the beach where I signed up for two weeks of classes. On their recommendation I checked into a small hostel for four dollars a night until I find something more private.
The school also offers a homestay as part of the program. For about two dollars a day you get room and board with a local family in town. Finding a homestay was part of my plan but after making friends with the local surf shop owners I was offered a private room above the store. The cost is double, four bucks a night with a shared kitchen and no meals included. Though the price severely cuts into my meagre funds it is a great hook-up and includes a surfboard which I would have had to buy then try to sell on my departure. What I don't know however is how loud the place will be as the owners of the shop are seven brothers.
Undecided I spent a second night at the hostel and set up my spearfishing gear for a swim out to the the far end of the bay. The town stretches from one end of the cresent shaped inlet to the other, a marina at the south end, small river mouth in the middle and rocky point to the north. Looking out the calm waters are littered with small fishing boats swaying in the stiff breeze and, farther out, an enourmous cruise ship that looks like something out of Gullivers Travels.
It takes about fifteen minutes to walk to the far end where I don my gear and start my swim. The sunset is beautiful from the water but with only two foot visibility below I can't see anything let alone catch my dinner. Its a refreshing swim though and I am glad to back home in the water. A posse of local hand-line fishermen meet me on the beach, all of them excited to hold the speargun and ask how much it costs. I know better than to mention a figure but we make friends and I get the low down on the best time to go out. Gear packed up I start my hike back.
Its dusk and the incoming tide has swelled the little rivermouth though its still only a few feet deep where it cuts through the beach. I am just one step from crossing when I step on the Ray. At first I think its a sharp rock cutting into my right foot but the intense pain screams otherwise. Foamy blood covers my sandel as I limp back to the hostel. By the time I get back the pain is shooting up my leg and a quick dousing of iodine does nothing to help it. My hosts are quick to come to my aid, driving me to the local clinic where I get a thorough washing and bandage and perscription for two-dollar pain killers.
The pain remains intense for hours, during which time I crawl the walls of my room, and finding that unsatisfactory, hop across the street for food. I return with a quarter chicken, fried plantain and scoop of coleslaw stuffed into a green plastic bag. Its a short distraction but fortunately the Ray was a small one and the pain would only last half the night.
I am thinking to stay here about a month, or until I am happy with my Spanish. As I type this the guys are waiting for me to decide if I will take the place, perhaps I will try to get them to agree to a two week trial to match my initial commitment to the school. If it sucks I will switch to the homestay...
Hello!!
Hola Perry
como estas .... Espero que estes disfrutando de Nicaragua ..
Sharon From Costa Rica
Pura Vida!!
Saludos a tua amigos!!!
the hunter becomes the hunted...
glad you made it there amigo. i'm nursing a good hipper from the Encinitas 11 foot kidney pool.
i hope you get that left at Yankee Beach.
Greg
Hola Perry!
Wow, it seems like yesterday that I was hanging on that same beach. Well, it was only three months ago. I got sting from a jellyfish there although it doesn't sound nearly as painful as the stingray. Have you been to the market yet? There's a food stand painted yellow on the far right side of the strip inside the market. I ate there often and loved the food. We drank beers at Big Wave Dave's and loved talking to Catalina the bartender. We gave her a kitten that we found, Hana. Ask Catalina how Hana is. Geoff and I loved San Juan Del Sur and stayed there for a little over a week. It was relaxing and fun. Ometepe is worth a visit (you could go for a weekend). I highly recommend spending a night or two in San Ramon which is where the waterfall is on the Island. It's a nice hike up although there's not much water to swim in. There is a family that rents small rooms in San Ramon and they are lovely. It is an opportunity to experience rural Nica life with wonderful hosts. I wished I could have spoken more Espanol. I wish I were there now!!! Oh! and try to make a trip to Lago Apoyo (just outside of Granada). It is an exquisite crater lake and there are places to stay and eat.
Ok... enough! Have a blast!
Em
Per,
Spent a month in Nicaragua in 94, hope things have improved...70% unemployment and abject poverty everywhere then. Places not to be missed: the twin volcanoes on Isla de Ometepe in Lago de Nicaragua. They take 6 hours to climb and another 6 to descend, be sure to take a swim in the crater and pack a hearty lunch.
The town of Masaya, lot of history there in regards to the Sandinista revolution. The locals will fill you with first hand personal accounts of the workings of Samosa's death squads and Reagan's contra rebels.
Places to avoid: the Cathedral and main bus depot in Managua.
The maids at the Ticabus hotel in Managua will babysitt any gear you may not want to take treking for about $2.50 a week. It is a good idea if you plan on spending any time in Managua.
Keep yer stick on the ice,
Darren deLean
Wow! Thanks for the update, Perry. Reading that here in my chilly little Scottish flat was like having a little five-minute vacation.
Vaja con Dios!
Posted by: Hamish MacDonald at January 17, 2005 06:11 AMYou didn't send this to mum did you? You haven't even been there a week..you're gonna geeeettt iiiittt!!! little sis
Posted by: rebecca at January 16, 2005 06:39 PMPerry,
It is a Canadian thing--stepping on rays. My wife Betty was making the first dive the first day of a trip to Baja--stepped on a Ray. Bucket of very Hot water, Epsome salts long soak. No after affects.
A year later same general place, same event, same treatment.
Since I have never be hit we are of the opinion that the rays are mad at the Canadians.
Enjoy your vists as much as I do your reports--they are Great.
Betty leaves next week for Canada--middle of the winter--something is wrong with this picture?
Sam Miller
Posted by: SA M MILLER at January 16, 2005 06:19 PMHola Perry,
Nicaragua will be experiences you won't forget - keep you head up but your eyes on where you're stepping out. Keep in touch.
Never a dull moment. Strummin', surfin', spearin', spanish. Nice combo. Chin up, the Ray sting only adds to the memory.
Patty
Perry, Those feet need more protection mate.
Hope all is well.
Sounds nicer then up here.
Hey started Snowboarding this year! That's your influence.
Logan.
Posted by: Logan at January 16, 2005 03:58 PMHey Per,
Gee, you don't have much luck with your feet... broken glass in Ottawa or stingrays down south. I guess I would take the latter. Don't bleed on their floor ... seven angry brothers are likely to make a mess of you.
Good to read your story. Enjoy the adventure.
Cheers.
Matt
Dive deep, stay long, come back for lunch.
Petimetre...Forget the 2 dollar pain killers, tequilla works much better. Remember what i told you, catch one for me, send me a pic, i will imagine Q-ing it up on my grill in -16 degree weather.
Use your tool wisely.
tone
Sounds absolutely warmer than BC. Take care of that foot and keep it clean. Hope the injury doesn't last long. In Thailand I needed to stay out of the water for 3 days to let a toe nail heal because the warm water breed bacteria.
Anyways, it sounds very interesting. Keep informed...a recording children's CDist...Marla
Posted by: marla at January 16, 2005 01:34 PM HOLA!
living vicariously thru your emails is great from here in cold nova scotia. P........... like you said to me at the len video in BC....."right now are You doing what You like?"
i can say yes now and you are an inspiration.
When you get back I have to send you a copy of the doc I PM'd for Robert Frank for ITV UK... he rules too. Im out to Sundance Tuesday. Stay away from the rays! Hope you heal fast!
tompkins out
Hola, my old waterlogged friend. Think you can hang in the waves of agua for 15 days (diez-cinco dias) like that floating tsunami-man in the Indian Ocean? Who's this nasty guy, Ray? Keep the speargun close. Best wishes, roger
Posted by: Roger at January 16, 2005 12:43 PMAh, go ahead and try something new with the homestay. The experiences will be worth it (at least we will get some more unexpected stories ;)). My friend stayed with a family in Venezuela and had a wonderful experience, getting insights into all sort of things and finding the children excellent teachers of spanish. He returned home, fairly fluent in Spanish after a few months. You have to do it at least once in your life, especially since it puts hair on your chest.
Well have fun whatever you do.
Cheers,
Tyler Z
Posted by: Tyler at January 16, 2005 12:33 PMPerry - The adventure begins (again)! Thanks for the update. I like the sound of the homestay, as it would force you to practice your Spanish. But then again, privacy is nice...
Portate bien!
Posted by: Gord at January 16, 2005 12:19 PM